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Best drum roll for a meal

Isn't it frustrating to scan a list of appetizers when every other item sounds good enough to eat? One recourse is to turn the restaurant into your own personal tapas bar and assemble a meal entirely of starters. Another answer is to order the "Vegetarian's Favorite Delights" at La Camelia, in East Providence. This little Armenian place, with only a half-dozen tables, lets you choose four veggie items from the appetizer menu and get half portions, for $9.75. Use pieces of hot pita bread to scoop up some of the savory hummus (ground chick peas and the sesame taste of tahini) or the fool moudammas (a thick dip of fava beans and chick peas, heavy on the parsley). The baba ghanoush is smoky with the mashed grilled eggplant, and the stuffed grape leaves won't disappoint. 92 Waterman Avenue, East Providence, (401) 434-1225.

Best place for college students to impress their parents

The natural desire when the 'rents come to town to pay homage to the prodigal son or daughter is to enjoy their company -- and soak them for a big night out. Certainly, there are plenty of trendy restaurants in Providence -- some whose culinary quality, we'd contend, fails to live up to their buzz. Nestled among a cluster of mom-and-pop shops on Hope Street, Ristorante Pizzico goes about its business more quietly, although with terrific results -- as demonstrated by the steady following it has developed during 10 years of business. The setting is casually elegant, the wine list comprehensive, and the food delicious, from dishes like horseradish-pistachio crusted filet of sole to a roasted rack of wild boar. Although reasonably priced, Pizzico is more in the range of a splurge for those on a student's budget. But beyond the expense, there are plenty of good reasons to bring mom and dad here. For one thing, they're certain to be impressed by your maturity and discernment in choosing a place to eat. 762 Hope Street, Providence, (401) 421-4114.

Best local color

The creeping threat of homogeneity faces us all -- big box stores, flavor-free food, and look-alike communities. This is what makes a place like Duffy's Tavern all the more special. It's not just that the proprietors serve simply delectable "seafood in the rough" at very reasonable prices, like $11.95 for a single lobster. It's not merely that they take obvious care with even the small details, like the nice seasoning on the sides of roast potatoes, or discovering terrific ears of fresh corn even before Memorial Day. Just as important is the distinct sense of individuality and character -- a healthy shot of true Rhode Island -- that imbues this combination restaurant-bar-seafood market. No doubt there are other establishments in the state that exemplify this kind of unmannered celebration of local seafood. But there's something timeless about a repast in the tavern portion of Duffy's -- the desultory sense of regulars nursing midday drinks at the bar, the memorabilia and snapshots of customers on the walls -- that makes worldly problems seem very far away. 235 Tower Hill Road (Route 1), North Kingstown, (401) 294-3733.

Best after-dinner jubiliation

The Basques claim that their Valentin Mondragon invented the heart and soul of Cherries Jubilee around 1709, despite the fact that his version contained almond extract instead of a flambé of liqueurs, and no vanilla ice cream at all. More credible credit is given to August Escoffier, who was commissioned in 1897 to come up with a new dessert to honor the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Victoria's reign. The resulting fireworks on a plate have remained a fitting, if hard to find, conclusion to any special occasion dinner. But you wouldn't want to have such a celebratory treat at some ordinary place. So why not at La Petite Auberge, Newport's preeminent French restaurant? Succulent, dark Bings, both kirsch and brandy poured on top at the table and lit. Zut alors! 19 Charles Street, Newport, (401) 848-6669.

Best variation on potato chips

No, it's not the obvious choice of bagged Terra chips, with bold bites of taro root, celeriac, or parsnip. This is the fresh-cooked variety, and the artichoke "crisps" at Basta are a welcome entry in the chips category. Thin-sliced artichoke bottoms are deep-fried (they curl slightly like potatoes) and served with a terrific artichoke mousse and a butter-and-lemon sauce for dipping possibilities. The dance of textures and tastes in this appetizer are a great introduction to the same exciting balance in Basta's entrees, such as capellini tossed with roasted garlic, arugula and shrimp, or swordfish in a sherry-orange sauce with grilled fennel and fire-roasted sweet peppers. And Basta's menu doesn't overlook Rhode Island's deep-fried round item, a ring not a chip, but crisp nonetheless -- calamari. 2195 Broad Street, Cranston, (401) 461-0330.

Best alternative to Orient Express intrigue

Until it squealed to a stop for the last time in 1977, that 1900-mile run between Paris and Istanbul was the clacketing, jostling stuff of legends. That shifty-eyed guy in the threadbare London Fog could be a spy; that sloe-eyed femme could easily prove fatale. A vivid imagination was necessary to enjoy the journey, because the cramped quarters and interminable boring stretches would take the edge off the romance long before the 60-hour trip was done. How much more efficient for you and your sweetie to meet on the Newport Dinner Train for the 22-mile, 21/2-hour "Romancing the Rails" opportunity, on Saturday evenings from April through November. You are each a mysterious stranger, perhaps with an exotic, unplaceable accent. Over champagne and a candlelight dinner, soft music, and a stop to watch the sunset, Paris might as well be around the bend. It costs $90 per couple, plus tax and tip. 19 America's Cup Avenue, Newport, (800) 398-7427.

Best homage to Wolfgang Puck

They're not shy about their allegiance here. Adesso California Café billboards its Left Coast reverence right in its name. And since California is a state of mind more than a place, the restaurant's bright atmosphere and agreeable service can easily prompt a Sunkist commercial kind of mood. Check out the wood-oven pizzas, which L.A. uses to measure its distance from Naples. There's asparagus on a lobster pizza -- anointed with the earthy touch of truffle oil and worthy of Spago. It also has a thinner crust than the others, to make sure the delicate flavors emerge. For visitors who find they have ranged scarily far from the English department faculty meeting they're supposed to be attending, Adesso offers a warmed brie pizza, which also contains portobello mushrooms and pesto. Ciao, bello, dude. 161 Cushing Street, Providence, (401) 521-0070.

Best company for shrimp

You've had your shrimp with garlic, with lemon and white wine, with marinara over linguine. But until you've had gambieri con carciofi at Jimmy's Italian Kitchen, you haven't exhausted the possibilities or tried one of the tastiest. In this version, four jumbo shrimp are served over white beans instead of pasta, and their sauce is a slightly sweet mix of artichokes and tomatoes, as if some of the artichoke broth were used in the preparation. A winner among winners at this reincarnation of Jimmy Kazounis's popular Jimmy's At the Italo. Other inobvious combos are duck breast with a wild mushroom risotto, and scallops in cream sauce with mashed potatoes. Jimmy's also doesn't stint on appetizers, including a daily grilled pizza creation, or desserts, with a classic cognac-laced créme brûlée. Please leave indecisive types at home: there are so many good choices at Jimmy's, you may never get past the calamari! 301 Main Street, East Greenwich, (401) 885-9554.

Best hole in the wall

Paul Carlson and Donald Blais, co-owners of Pauldon's Gourmet Express, excel in the art of creating the perfect lavash, a pita roll-up. Hiding behind a Walgreen in the forever cluttered nook that is Apponaug, the duo have more than a dozen years in the deli and catering business. It's all about choices at Pauldon's; even the innovative salads offered make for tough decisions -- from tortellini pesto or Mediterranean salad to the interesting salade Nicoise, with tuna, green beans, potato, egg, and olives tossed in a balsamic vinaigrette. The horseradish mayo on a roast beef grinder (all Boar's Head deli cuts) with smoked gruyere or cranberry mayo with peppercorn turkey and havarti for under six bucks (with deli pickle and side) are just a few of the infinite combinations, along with homemade specialties like chicken or curried egg salad, and the Beef Wellington, with roast beef, bacon, liverwurst, and garlic horseradish dressing. The busy hole in the wall is open Monday through Friday from 9 a.m. to 3p.m., accepts catering appointments, and has a separate line for daily specials. 10 Music Lane, Warwick (401) 738-9894, call 738-8844 for daily specials, www.pauldons.com.

Best Italian 'nawtha da Hill'

It has been three years since Pinelli's North End Cafe in North Providence opened its doors to critical acclaim, yet another culinary gem in Rhode Island thanks to Bill Pinelli, who also has a hand in other hot spots such as The Grille on Main, the Post Office Café, and the outstanding Quattro in South Kingston. Executive chef John Granata and staff present memorable, old-world Italian dishes in an elegant yet unpretentious atmosphere. The menu, from unique apps to their amazing desserts (including the best tiramisu and crème brûlée in town), keep the joint packed, along with the sleek see-and-be seen bar. The stuffed portabello or the Italian-style braised calamari in spicy tomato sauce is just the warm-up to the extensive entrée menu. Steaks, pasta, seafood, chicken, and veal dishes are offered in astounding variety, including the herb encrusted Norwegian salmon with parmesan mashed potatoes and asparagus; the fettuccine carbonara, a cream sauce with pancetta, scallions, and Romano cheese; or the veal Napoleon with beefsteak tomatoes, grilled eggplant, and mozzarella, and drizzled with a homemade pesto (head sous chef Mike Gionti arrives up to six hours early to prepare homemade sauces, from puttanesca to pomodoro -- you name it). Reservations are highly recommended on weekends and on big holidays like Mother's Day, New Year's Eve, and Easter. 1058 Charles Street, North Providence, (401) 726-4400, www.pinellisnorthendcafe.com.

Best lip-puckering liqueur

A generous folk, Italians. When the people of Sorrento and the surrounding Amalfi Coast started soaking the peels of their particularly fragrant local lemons in 100-proof vodka, adding sugar and water and beginning a summertime tradition, they didn't keep it to themselves. Nowadays Limoncello is a popular liqueur, served chilled, and little by little is sure to grow on American palates. You can make your own, if you can wait the requisite 80 days for the peels to relinquish their zesty intensity. But if you're impatient, there is no better place to have some than at Nonna Cherubina. Co-owner Gianluigi Guidetti, in convivial largess, has been known to pour some for a table gratis, while explaining how the liqueur is replacing anise-flavored Sambucco as the digestif of choice back home. 2317 West Shore Road, Warwick, (401) 738-5221.

Best brunch with brio

The best brunches have a flair about them. They involve an expedition, a seldom-indulged food treat, a warm and welcoming atmosphere, or an unexpected treat. Wrap all these into one tidy package and you have the Jamestown patisserie called Slice of Heaven. Open since April, this bakery/cafe serves croissant Grand Marnier French toast for breakfast, and tuna salad Nicoise for lunch. So when you get to Sunday brunch, you might as well order the eggs Benedict, in meat or veggie versions, and then jump to the pastry and pie side of the menu. Pecan brioche sticky buns beckon, as do raspberry rugelach. But linger in this haven of wood and light with that someone special, and you might decide to split a piece of the richest chocolate cake this side of . . . well, heaven. Belgian chocolate with sabayon baked inside a sweet chocolate crust. Served with crème anglaise and berries. To die for -- or to be good for. 32 Narragansett Avenue, Jamestown, (401) 423-9866. Also, watch for upcoming evenings with wine, dessert, and music.

Best meals with history

Although scheduling changes may happen next year at the Smith-Appleby House with regard to their well-known "socials," one date remains fixed: their annual May Breakfast happens on May 1, regardless of which day it falls on. There are seatings at 7:30, 9, and 10:30 a.m. and, along with ham, eggs, and home fries, you get jonnycakes and homemade apple pie. Throughout the summer and early fall, afternoon "socials" take place. In the past there has been a Strawberry Festival in June, an Ice Cream Social in July, a Blueberry Social in August, and an Apple Social in mid-September. And though the recipes may not go back 300 years, the farmhouse itself dates from 1696 and has been lovingly restored. Volunteers give tours at the socials and at the Christmas open house on December 9 from 1 to 4 p.m. Smith-Appleby House, 220 Stillwater Road, Smithfield, (401) 231-7363, or (401) 231-0375.

Best reason to trek to East Providence

It's a sure sign that one is well on the way to becoming an adopted Rhode Islander when even the scant journey to a favorite cookie mecca proves to be too arduous. That would explain this East Sider's penchant for scoring Morning Star Bakery's hermit cookies at Eastside Marketplace, rather than making the pilgrimage to distant East Providence. We stumbled upon this toothsome treat after prowling the supermarket aisles. Sure, Pepperidge Farm's goods are quite palatable, as are any number of the national products produced in the gazillions by gigantic industrial bakeries. But can they compare with the fresher handiwork of a small local shop? Don't be ridiculous. The folks at Morning Star make a terrific hermit, pleasantly chewy with a hint of sweetness and an undercurrent of molasses. Then there's the fact that hermits, which were developed during the seafaring days because of their staying power, are a distinctly old-fashioned treat. So look at it this way: eating these cookies supports a mom-and-pop business and continues a venerable snacking tradition. And, yes, we do promise to make that journey to the source. 1106 South Broadway, East Providence, (401) 434-1970.

Best places to taste a different culture

In addition to its Italian, Irish, and Portuguese populations, since the early '70s, Providence has become a haven for Latin-American immigrants from many countries. The Dominican Republic and Puerto Rico lead in population numbers, with Colombia, Guatemala, and Mexico next in line. Each of these holds special festivals throughout the summer. But the fun really heats up in August when the Bolivian Association holds its annual Feast of the Virgin of Urkupiña, the Colombian-American Society stages a parade to celebrate the Independence of Colombia, Quiqueya en Acción sponsors the annual Dominican Festival, and the Puerto Rican community puts on a week-long festival and a large parade, part of Fiestas Patronales. You could be chased by Dominican folk-devils or pulled into a mesmerizing merengue. All of the floats, costumes, and dancers are colorful and infectious, and the foods add another unbeatable dimension. Don't miss the Dominican pastries, especially the ones with guava paste! For more info on the Bolivians' feast, call (401) 785-0147; the Colombians' parade, (401) 728-0515; the Dominicans' fest, (401) 941-2749; and the Puerto Ricans' parade, (401) 739-4895.

Best place to pretend you're on Sex and the City

The HBO series may have popularized the particular vodka martini variation -- maybe because it's the color of a blush -- but you don't have to be a busy Manhattanite (or even get cable) to drape yourself languorously next to a Cosmopolitan at the end of a long, hard day. They're proud of theirs at Z Bar & Grille. You can brag or whimper about your sex life anywhere, but doing so here over one of these cocktails does complete the gestalt. Svetka is the house vodka -- although you can jazz it up with a raspberry variety -- and it does come through as the active ingredient. Cointreau, lime juice and a splash of cranberry juice noticeably more concentrated than your usual Ocean Spray. Shaken, not stirred, and voilá! Bond. Jane Bond. 244 Wickenden Street, Providence, (401) 831-1566.

Best place to pass on the bib

The Crow's Nest in Warwick has long been a hit with the old-timers and locals in the know (tucked down a side street in Apponaug), and while the menu has plenty of choices at abnormally thrifty prices, the real bargain is found with their lobster sauté. The Oaks may reign supreme with their classic sauté with toast points, but the Crow's Nest has it for under 15 bucks year-round. Call it a landlubber (aka lazy man's meal), but when hunger comes knocking fueled by the anticipation of fresh lobster, why not let the chef finish the task? No beady eyes and antennae cluttering the plate, or cracking claws spewing briny stench of sea water to deal with here, simply a mound of fresh lobster lounging in a pool of butter (with your choice of pasta or potato and vegetable, and soup or salad included). Hang upstairs in the busy dining room or eat at the huge oak bar (beers are cheap too), and just say no to the plastic lobster bib. 288 Arnolds Neck Drive, Warwick, (401) 732-6575.

Best and most original antipasto

Remember those antipasto plates that had salami, sliced American, and some iceberg lettuce? Fortunately they've gone the way of the dinosaur in most Italian restaurants in Rhode Island. And if you're looking for the epitome of this change, stop in at 84 High Street, where you can order the High Street Antipasto ($7.95) for lunch or dinner. Make that as lunch or dinner. If you intend to eat anything else at this meal, split this plate with several people. You'll be treated to warm grilled vegetables and rotisserie chicken, fresh mozzarella, plum tomatoes, sliced prosciutto and provolone, roasted red peppers, and grilled foccacia. All of this perches artistically atop a mound of mixed greens and arrives dressed with plenty of balsamic vinaigrette. 84 High has a panzenella bread salad and a taco salad (only at lunch) that are equally generous. 84 High Street, Westerly, (401) 596-7871.

Best Key West incarnation

Unlike many such restaurants on a crowded resort street on a New England island -- in this case, Jamestown -- Trattoria Simpatico has the advantage of an extensive side garden, in which they can set up a palm-lined bar, a romantically plant-lush alcove and plenty of other tables and chairs under large, sheltering trees and white awnings draped with ivory, green, and lavender organza. There are white lattice-backed bar stools, with watermelons in the fabric of the seat cushions; a green picket fence next to a bed of multi-colored impatiens on the street side; and tiny white lights hung under the awnings and along the fence. The mood is festive and relaxed, joyful and alluring, that southern-winds-blowing, Caribbean feel you get throughout Key West. The menu also reflects Southern climes, mostly Italian instead of Indies, a bit of Thai instead of Key. But if it's mood instead of mode you're seeking, Simpatico couldn't be better. 13 Narragansett Avenue, Jamestown, (401) 423-3731.

Best and biggest squid since Captain Nemo's

Why bother with the Amazon when you can explore the upper reaches of Atwood Avenue in darkest Johnston? At Ruthie's Bar & Grill, tucked into a CVS shopping plaza, looking more like a bar than a boîte, an anthropological study would report very bizarre restaurant-business behavior. A pasta topped with pink vodka sauce for an outlandish $4.95? A half-pound burger made from Black Angus beef for $3.50? Ridiculous. All bets are off on the impressiveness of the preparations if chef/proprietor John Furia isn't manning the saucepans when you show up -- the poor man's gotta sleep sometime -- but you're in good hands if he is. A special may be his Neopolitan grandmother's humongous $7.95 squid preparation, with a breadcrumb and anchovy stuffing. Somehow he bakes tender what should be the consistency of a hooked boot. Miracolo! 1478 Atwood Avenue, Johnston, (401) 274-RUTH (7884).

Best counterweight for tofu and veggies

Bread &Circus, the natural supermarket chain, earns justified respect for the super-fresh quality of its produce and seafood. But it would be a shame to overlook the variety of baked goods, particularly the sweets, produced at B&C's facility in Everett, Massachusetts. The best of the best are the congo bars (a three-pack goes for about $4), a brownie-like creation that mixes the flavor of nuts, coconut, and chocolate chips with the slightly chewy texture of its inspiration. It's not that we can recall having many miscast congo bars in our experience; if people are going to make these, they usually make a strong showing. B&C's congo bars, though, are fresh, sinfully good without being tooth-pain sweet, and an apt counterweight for those aisles of tofu and glistening vegetables. 261 Waterman Street, Providence, (401) 272-1690.

Best reason to smoke

No, not cigarettes or anything else you'd inhale. This time the verb is active, as in to smoke ham or turkey or, in the case of Main Street Fish Market, various kinds of fish and seafood. Wholesaler Fox Seafood in Narragansett does the actual smoked items that are sold at Main Street, and though those vary a bit seasonally, you can usually find smoked and peppered bluefish or mackerel; smoked scallops and tuna; cold and hot (or Northwest-style) smoked salmon; and smoked marlin near the holidays. In fall and winter, Main Street carries finnan haddie (smoked cod) for ye wee lads and lassies wi' a hankerin' fer it. And they will take special orders for smoked trout, smoked Cajun catfish, or smoked fish platters. Main Street also has a full line of fresh seafood and an adjacent restaurant with yummy seafood dinners. Main Street Fish Market, 402A Main Street, Wakefield, (401) 782-2366.

Best tropical getaway disguised as dessert

It's not often that you can bite into a dessert and feel as if you've been transported on a brief tropical getaway. The fruit tart at Pastiche Fine Desserts, on Providence's Federal Hill, offers just such an ethereal experience. First come the bites of luscious fruit -- super-fresh mango, kiwi, red raspberry, blackberry, or whatever else may be in season. Then the fruit mixes with a taste of the smooth custard -- made only with premium ingredients like fresh eggs and heavy cream -- and the flaky crust. Believe us, this is exceptionally good, particularly combined with a strong cup of coffee. Self-taught bakers Brandt Heckert and Eileen Collins started Pastiche about 20 years ago, and the care that the couple puts into their culinary handiwork is obvious. Over time, the focus of their business has shifted from wholesale to retail -- a welcome development for those with a sudden hankering to cut out to Pastiche for a bit of paradise. The fruit tart is being phased out until next spring, due to the seasonal scarcity of tender fruit, but fear not. Those visiting Pastiche in the interim need not worry about a paucity of compelling choices. 92 Spruce Street, Providence, (401) 861-5190.

Best alternative to the hard stuff

The difference between boxed pasta and fresh pasta is the difference between prunes and plums. You might argue that there's nothing wrong with some dried pasta -- the quality stuff, at least 100 percent semolina and perhaps individually extruded by hand in the local alternative to shadow puppets in some remote Piedmontese village. However, that would ignore the fact that the difference between boxed pasta and fresh pasta is the difference between alabaster and flesh. Convinced? Then check out the imaginative varieties to-go at Rachel's Pastanova. Choices change every day. Maybe there will be five-cheese tortellini, or striped lemon-dill-crab ravioli, or ravioli stuffed with portobellos or lobster. Or you might happen in when they have bundles of angel hair wrapped around feta, which miraculously don't fall apart when placed briefly in boiling water. 71 Hope Street, Providence, (401) 351-8585.

Best calamari -- period. End of story

Every local food critic feels the need to sample and ultimately devote a paragraph to Li'l Rhody's official state appetizer -- calamari. Any proprietor who presents squid which doesn't respond like a soggy tire receives critical props and, more importantly, valuable word of mouth from patrons. Locals swear by various spots for top-notch calamari such as Macera's, Pinelli's, Duffy's Tavern, Eclectic Grille and, of course, Twin Oaks, but it's a Jamaican joint (no, seriously) on Federal Hill that stands apart in the squid department. The Calypso Calamari served by the acclaimed Montego Bay On the Hill hits the palate from every angle, delivering an indelible twist on a classic app. A balsamic-infused reduction replaces the obligatory ho-hum hot peppers and olive oil. The syrupy sauce mellows the pungency balsamic usually delivers and presents a profound sweetness accompanied by an underlying subtle twang. The squid rings are consistently tender beneath a crunchy exterior. In other words, you could eat this stuff all night -- which just might happen after tossing back a few of their specialty rum concoctions. And the Bay periodically hosts a "Rumtini," one of the most unique, lively experiences da Hill has to offer. 424 Atwells Avene, Providence, (401) 751-3040.

Best reason to get off the couch on Sunday

Picasso's Pizza in Warwick offers plenty of reasons to get off the couch and congregate on Sunday, the holy day for NFL football. But don't let the name fool you -- prints of the classic artist's work hang on the walls alongside Patriots paraphernalia and "Yankees Suck!" T-shirts on sale for $10. Cordial owner Ray Brooks is the quintessential pizza pub owner, remote control in hand, satisfying a loyal following on Sundays, a guaranteed packed house all day with plenty of seating, and mini-TV sets at all tables. With up to eight games on simultaneously, fantasy geeks can gobble up the stats while Pats fans ultimately ignore the sensory overload and remain glued to the home team on the big screen. The pizza is top-notch (particularly the olive oil and garlic white sauce variety), with grinders, apps, and arguably the best buffalo wings south of Wings To Go. A good selection of beers, including Murphy's Amber and Stout, and Michelob Amber Bock on tap (a tasty, poor man's Newcastle for only $6.95 a pitcher). Three pool tables host various weekly tournaments, and check out local acoustic guru Kelly Branson (our resident Ray Pruitt, if you will) jamming solo on weekends. 2323 Warwick Avenue, Warwick, (401) 739-5030.

Best road trip involving the beach and eating

Horseneck Beach is a solid 30-mile shot from Providence -- far enough to convey a sense of getting out of town, but not so distant to make for a tiresome trek. Get going relatively early and you won't face the annoying backup of cars crawling down Route 88 from Interstate 195. Horseneck is pretty mellow as things go -- a mix of everyone from the high school set to parents with young children scooping the sand. It's a nice place to visit and the swimming is good but, if you're like us, you might get a little bored after a few hours. The proximity of a fun and low-key restaurant -- the Back Eddy, a project of Chris Schlesinger, a well-known Cambridge restaurateur and cookbook author -- offers an inviting way to transform the typical beach outing into something more special. Casual enough to welcome beachcombers, the Eddy offers boldly flavored food, live fire grilling, a stellar raw bar, and the kind of fare -- chowder, steamers, margaritas -- perfectly suited for a summer day. And getting on the road after chowing down, you'll even miss the afternoon backups on the way home. 1 Bridge Road, Westport, Massachusetts, (508) 636-6500.

Best thing to happen to a codfish

The Portuguese take its salty cousin and bake it with potatoes. Rhode Islanders dip it in batter and serve it as fish and chips. But the Cantonese chefs at Lucky Garden give the humble codfish royal treatment in their so may preparations, either steamed with pea pods and broccoli, stir-fried with ginger and garlic, or pan-fried on its own. The first of these preparations turns the pieces of cod into cloud-like squares of delicate fish, melting in your mouth in a way you never knew cod could, with a taste as fresh as the vegetables. There are 173 items on the Hong Kong-style menu at Lucky Garden, plus a weekend dim sum menu and a Chinese-American menu. But those in the know peruse the Hong Kong menu, for it's there that the real adventures begin: duck feet with black mushrooms or sea cucumber with abalone. If the choices overwhelm you, go cod! 1852 Smith Street, North Providence, (401) 231-5626.

Best non-alcoholic use of vineyard compost

Oak leaves? No, they don't work. Strawberry? Elephant-ear philodendron? Nope, nope. Eventually some Mideastern cook, maybe as a joke at first, spooned some rice balls onto grape leaves, folded them up, marinated them in lemon juice and olive oil and served them under quizzical furrowed brows. Hmmm . . . Ummm! Dolmas (Turkish for "filling," though most think of them as Greek) were born, and the birthday celebration must have been a doozy. Where are the best stuffed grape leaves in our hemisphere? Conveniently at a Turkish restaurant in Cranston. The stuffed grape leaves at Efendi's Mediterranean Grill, oozing emerald-green Greek olive oil that tastes like the Platonic Ideal of olives, filled with curried rice and mint. It's just $5.50 for six morsels that in a worthier world would have been imported for the last meal of Socrates. 1255 Reservoir Avenue, Cranston, (401) 943-8800.

Best alcoholic use of vineyard compost

A restaurant named Grappa has to be particular about its namesake, the Italian eau de vie distilled from the grape skins and seeds left over from wine pressings. Co-owner Jack Walrond does the ordering and tries to keep upwards of a dozen varieties behind the bar. He says the stuff is hard to find and expensive when you do. For every 1000 bottles of wine produced, maybe one bottle of grappa can be squeezed out. His personal favorite is Terra Bianca Grappa La Bomba, but at $25 a pop it's a little stiff for the merely curious. More affordable and still good, he says, is the Castello, at $12 a shot. They carry $8 grappa in fancy hand-blown bottles, but he wouldn't recommend it. 525 South Main Street, Providence, (401) 454-1611.

Best argument for eclecticism

If you like to cook what you like to eat -- one night Italian, another Mexican, still another Thai or Cajun -- why not combine your eclectic tastes in a restaurant where you can do just that? At Haven Hill Cafe, chef Phyllis Arffa brings her favorite dishes to the fore, with personal twists on familiar concepts. Haven Hill stuffies use cherrystones instead of the larger quahogs; Haven's spinach and strawberry salad gets an extra kick from hot-spiced honey-glazed peanuts. Cuisines not usually fused become new combos, such as Cajun shrimp and andouille sausage over penne pasta, or Atlantic salmon filet with pineapple relish and a coconut curry sauce. Latino ingredients are given the nod in a guava-glazed pork loin with chayote squash slaw and a yucca cake. All of these dishes are executed with good instincts for what works together, not what draws attention to itself. Viva la variété! 20 Haven Avenue, Cranston, (401) 942-1009.

Best patriotic pizza

Patriotism can be a dangerous thing in the wrong minds. Maybe it should require special training and a license, like for fireworks. An emotional sobriety test wouldn't hurt either, lest one clamber into a cockpit and zoom off to carpet bomb villages. One way we can take the xenophobic edge off of the feeling is to empathize with other countries' patriots. Don't start with the hard ones, like the Afghanis. Try the Italians . . . Italians are lovers, not fighters. WWII jokes about that quality were typified by the one that goes, "How many gears does an Italian tank have? Five -- one forward and four reverse." Love of food is behind such love of life. In the red, white, and green Pizza Patriotica at Gian Carlo's, the flag of Italy is celebrated in roasted red peppers, mozzarella, and fresh basil. And celebrated deliciously. 153 Hamlet Avenue, Woonsocket, (401) 765-3711.

Best grinders and gats

Where else but Coventry can you get good cheap eats and a shotgun in one stop? Make the voyage to the Original Captain Nemo's Submarine Shop on Sandy Bottom Road. There are super-reasonable daily specials and a kid's menu under 5 bucks, and in the battle raging on for best fish and chips the Captain is no doubt in the running, particularly with the way local yokels line up starting at lunchtime on Fridays. The tiny sandwich shop has been in business for more than two decades, and the trippy, airbrushed mural on the wall portraying underworld Atlantis is still there too. The cheese steak is off the hook, as well as the hot pastrami and Swiss, or the Reuben with fries for a mere $4.95. Subs are available in three sizes , but the 30-inch "Nuclear Submarine" is the way to go to feed the fam or Sunday football buddies raiding the cupboard. Chicken escarole, chili, and chowders are just a few of the home-style soups, by the cup, pint, or gallon to go. And after a visit to the Captain, local hillbillies . . . er, hunters can load up on ammo at Ocean State Firearms, conveniently located next door. 15 Sandy Bottom Road, Coventry, (401) 822-1718.

Best dips with your bread basket

When so many restaurants have switched from the traditional butter or margarine pats to a cruet of extra virgin olive oil to accompany slices of crusty Italian, Maria's Seaside Cafe has done them one better (or two better, as it turns out). Maria's butter substitutes are two generous dollops: a bright-green basil pesto, and an orangey-red sundried tomato paste. Both have their own share of EVOO mixed in, so they are imminently spreadable and ultimately yummy. With such an intro, how could the rest go wrong? It doesn't. From the grilled calamari and the salad with feta and apple among the mixed greens through the house-made raviolis (one with roasted chicken and portobellos), you'll see co-founders Nicola and Maria Bellone's hands throughout the menu. You'll also discover historic notes and quaint quips accompanying each item -- i.e., Italians eat 32 pounds of pears per year, Americans only 3.5 pounds. Who knew? 132 Atlantic Avenue, Westerly, (401) 596-6886.

Best trip to Belgium without the flight

Though Belgian waffles have become synonymous with pancake houses and can even be found in the frozen food aisles of most supermarkets, they have become a pale imitation of their original inspiration: a thick but light, fresh-baked waffle. At Van Ghent Sandwiches 'n' Stuff, Belgians Rosita and Roland Guiliams turn out the authentic, yeast-raised waffle, served Belgian-style with light brown sugar and butter. Formidable! Their "pancakes" are heavenly crêpes, filled with fruits or ice cream (or both) and drizzled with homemade chocolate or strawberry sauces. They also prepare crêpes with savory fillings, such as chicken, ham and cheese, or vegetables. Sandwiches feature a hot Flemish mustard, a side of Ghent-style red-cabbage cole slaw, and croque monsieurs and madams -- grilled cheese and ham with an egg atop madam's head. The Guiliams also make Flemish beef stew, Ghentian chili, and Flemish omelets (with prosciutto). Photographs and prints of Ghent complete your total immersion. (Van Ghent is open only for breakfast and lunch.) 7A Commerce Street, Westerly (across from the Westerly Sun), (401) 348-6026.

Best non-traditional bread pudding

What could be simpler than bread pudding? As the dessert freely admits to us by blurting out its main ingredient, it was devised as an afterthought, as something to do with stale loaves. It's not hard to distract a diner from the dessert's humble origins, though. In Ireland, they splash in whiskey with the chunks of soda bread. There are plenty of worthwhile variations closer by. At Tucker's Bistro in Newport, they use dried cherries instead of the expected raisins. At the late, lamented Rhumbline in Newport, they went so far as to make a chocolate bread pudding. But the version of the moment is at Naissance, a relatively new restaurant on Federal Hill. Their way is to use Amaretto for a bright almond taste and mocha cream to make the cholesterol component fascinating. 242 Atwells Avenue, Providence, (401) 272-9610.

Best leftovers

Just kidding, Trent. You see, Trent Ferrara, the chef/proprietor of Trent Bistro, Kafe & Pastries, hates it when you say that. Thanks to his Greek grandmother, his bistro has gotten appreciated. An expression of hers was "Cook it today, serve it tomorrow," in the Mediterranean tradition, and he has taken the technique to heart. Letting flavors set and mingle, his entrées and side dishes are prepared ahead of time, displayed in a deli case, and reheated for you. Not just signature meat loaf or boneless spare ribs under a finger-sucking tomato sauce, the sort of things you'd look forward to raiding the refrigerator for, but such likely overcooked challenges as fish -- Trent's orange roughie is thick and firm enough to taste sizzled to order. So drop in and point to a favorite in the display case. Just don't use the L-word. 748 Hope Street, Providence, (401) 831-5363.

Best anti-social broccoli pie

The broccoli and spinach pies at Rhodes Pizza and Family Restaurant are so popular they have their own category on the menu. Owned by a succession of Greek-Americans (currently Leo Giallis), Rhodes also features gyros, souvlakis, Greek salads, grinders and pizza, pasta, and sandwiches. On Friday, bags and bags of fish and chips move out the door along with dinner portions of fried squid, shrimp, clam strips, or smelts. But the broccoli pies alone would be worth the trip. Drenched in garlic and olive oil, with your choice of pepperoni, olives, mushrooms, and/or cheese, they are the size of a small pizza folded in half, and so rich with flavor and calories (well, ya gotta have the cheese!) that they can comprise both lunch and supper. Combine it with a Greek salad, thick with crumbled feta (in small and large sizes), and you can satisfy the heftiest appetite. Open only for breakfast and lunch. Rhodes Pizza and Family Restaurant, 3736 Pawtucket Avenue, East Providence, (401) 433-5770.

Best meal by flashlight

There's romantic lighting. And then there's lighting low enough to require small flashlights passed out to diners. Such is the case at Tucker's Bistro, where each table has a different and intriguing small lamp, from Art Deco to '40s chic. But the lamps do very little to illuminate the menu or even the food. However, the low light certainly isn't intended to disguise any mediocre cuisine. Everything at Tucker's is top-notch, including the dash of cayenne on a pear and Gorgonzola salad; the corn, spinach, and asparagus in a lobster pot pie; the fig and chèvre coating on a puff-pastry-baked chicken breast; the white chocolate, pecans, and dried cherries stuffed into a bread pudding. All this and conversation with witty co-owner Tucker Harris. It can't be beat. (Just don't leave home without your own light source.) 150 Broadway, Newport, (401) 846-3449.

Best Italian on the Neck

Michael's Roman Deli and Sandwich Shop, located at the "bottom of the Neck," has been the deli of choice in Warwick for more than 17 years, best known for their subs and busy catering service. Every deli sandwich imaginable is served on fresh, chewy bread; pizza strips are only 60 cents; and homemade pepperoni or spinach and cheese "sticks," a mini stromboli, and Sicilian rounds with hot peppers, olives, onions, and cheese are just a few of the low-cost Italian goodies. Homemade meatballs and the chicken parm club are great choices, but the steak and cheese grinder ($4.95 and $5.95) has a strong argument for the best around. And why not grab a pound of stuffed cherry peppers for $5.95. The mellow interior with comfortable booths are packed daily for lunch, and Michael's recently started serving beer and wine. 1690 West Shore Road, Warwick, (401) 739-7299.

Best Thai curry

Though many people discover Thai food through pad Thai noodles, deeper taste treats await you in the curries at Siam Square. With subtler spices than many Indian curries -- less cumin and cardamom, more lemongrass and lime -- Thai variations incorporate curry pastes that are ground from both fresh and dried herbs and spices. The ingredients in these pastes lend names and colors to four kinds of curry: green has green onions and lime zest, red uses small dried red chilis, yellow is heavy on garlic, massaman means "Muslim" and is the closest to northern Indian cooking. At Siam Square, each curry focuses on different vegetables -- i.e., green has zucchini and eggplant, massaman has carrots, potatoes and peanuts. With your choice of curry, you can decide to have chicken, shrimp, beef, duck, pork, or tofu. And specify the chili alarm factor you'd prefer, mild to hot -- they'll adjust to your wishes. 442 Smithfield Avenue, Providence, (401) 272-1168.

Best source of good cholesterol

A French restaurant shy about pouring on the butterfat is like an adult film star embarrassed about sex. Nouvelle cuisine, with its well-meaning sauce Nazis, has always seemed as prudish as it is prudent. Leave your guilt at the door at Pot au Feu, both the restaurant and the downstairs bistro. Three kinds of pâté. The French fries are offered with a butterfat . . . er, béarnaise sauce, for pity's sake. Ask amiable restaurateur Bob Berke (identifiable by his bow tie) why there are no cute little heart-right symbols next to any items on the menu and he'll brighten even more. Take cheese -- literally. Why is it, he has been known to ask, that heart disease isn't shown to increase when cheese is included in studies of dairy product consumption? 44 Custom House Street, Providence, (401) 273-8953.

Best pasta sauce for the indecisive

It's the Thanksgiving-pie syndrome: "I think I'll have a sliver of each, thanks." So it is at Guido's, where the choice between red, white, and creamy sauces -- all homemade -- can be wrenching until you know the trick. Order all three, layered on baked pasta, and known as "Guido's special sauce." The creamy sauce, called "fettucine sauce," is made with ricotta and no egg; the aglio olio has fresh garlic and extra virgin olive oil; the tomato sauce is prepared with whole crushed tomatoes, plenty of fresh garlic, and a splash of Marsala. The result is a fresh-from-the-oven casserole that you can't stop eating. And if you order the pasta as a side to the Thursday night special of chicken breast and stuffing, you'll have enough food for three meals and another reminder of Thanksgiving in that spicy stuffing! Guido's, 102 Hope Street, Providence, (401) 273-5812.

Best fish to never slide off a plate

You'd think that New England would have fish and chips down pat. You'd think that the grease-oozing versions, those filets wrapped in batter as thick as a peat cutter's overcoat, would be the specialty of Midwesterners who wouldn't recognize an oar, never mind good seafood. Yet somehow most eateries around here still don't do it right. If everybody fried fish as perfectly as at Wiley's at Middlebridge, the world would be a better place. Their best version is fried flounder Santa Fe ($10.95). Two big filets are rolled in a mixture of yellow and blue corn chip crumbs, which absorb so little oil that the result looks baked. They come with a combo of regular and sweet potato fries, and you can have salsa for the fish instead of tartar sauce. Outstanding. 95 Middlebridge Road, Narragansett, (401) 782-3830.

Best array of oceanic aphrodisiacs

There are people who claim not only to be able to identify the vintage, but the vineyard that a wine comes from with one well-considered sip. Surely in Cranston there are connoisseurs who eat their stuffies with upraised pinky and wax eloquent about the quality of the quahogs. But for those who really know their bivalves, the place to be is the Providence Oyster Bar. Let others have them in stew or breaded and fried. You'll have them raw. Choose from among a dozen or more varieties, and let their distinctive textures and flavors linger on your palate: firm Blue Points, briny Kittery Points, sweet Bras d'Ors, lettuce-tasting Malpaques. Brought from Watch Hill and Yakima Bay and Prince Edward Island. Washed down with a cold glass of lager or Chardonnay. From $1.25 to $1.95 apiece. 283 Atwells Avenue, Providence, (401) 272-8866.

Best fate for an ear of corn

The very idea of air-popped popcorn is ridiculous -- and the taste rates an even less kind description. Think of all the trouble a kernel goes through: it bursts inside-out for you into this morsel that deserves more flavor than the little cumulus cloud it resembles. Cracker Jacks might be going overboard, but Caboose Kettle Korn gets the opportunity just right. Their fare is slightly salty and slightly sweet (sugar goes into the hot corn oil), stirred in a big kettle with a wooden paddle, with a "secret ingredient" added for a special something. As explained on their Web site, kettle corn probably had its origins with the German immigrant farmers of the early 1700s, and the taste treat was popular and easily prepared over campfires during the Civil War. Available at the Korner Kafe, Canal Street, Westerly, or at www.caboosekettlekorn.com.

Best breakfast in a silver box

Our Silver Top is still the best around, but we also adore the 24/7 retro-meets-Tomorrowland silver box that is Denny's on (pick one) Bald Hill Road/Quaker Lane/Route 2. The Original Grand Slam ($5.99), a country-fried steak with double covered and smothered hash browns, is the comfort food of love for drunken couples. What better way to settle a stomach brimming with booze than a patty melt with fries -- a culinary coma never tasted better. Service is good (tip well -- the third shift at Denny's garners respect), and the food arrives split-second. The twisted cast of characters patronizing a Denny's late night is entertainment enough, or grab the to-go menu for when the munchies come calling but you just can't deal with the bright neon lights. 444 Quaker Lane, Warwick, (401) 826-7613.

Best buffet with bamboo shoots

Admittedly, a Sterno flame under a stainless steel tray is not an appetite-inspiring sight. Shades of cafeteria food steamed past any recognizable life. But while most buffets are worth passing up, the lunchtime spread at Pakarang is worth seeking out. All you can eat for $7.25 is one thing, good Thai cooking is something else again. The place is busy enough at midday that dishes get replenished frequently with fresh batches. On a recent visit, the string beans and bell peppers had snap and crunch in the delicious dishes: chicken in both coconut milk and chili sauce preparations; fried tofu with ginger; and, for the especially carnivorous, exotically spiced ground beef with veggies. Not to mention the preliminary chicken wings and the broth containing pork dumplings with a marvelous cilantro tang. Lunch is from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. 303 South Main Street, Providence, (401) 453-3660.

Best coronary by chocolate

Why not name a restaurant after a special dessert? Especially when the name of that dessert, Tartufo, has come to mean "a precious thing" by its link to truffles, both earthbound and chocolate. That's what the owners of Tartufo did when they opened last year and offered several variations on chocolate truffles, beginning with the modest bite-sized candies, moving through a dessert truffle filled with hazelnut gelato, and climaxing in the grand tartufo nero. This decadent indulgence is a large bonbon dusted with cocoa and draped with chocolate and caramel sauces. Inside is a dreamy chocolate mousse with a sweet-cream vanilla core, and underneath this chocolate globe is a generous crust of chopped hazelnuts. Precious and downright righteous. Tartufo, 758 Hope Street, Providence, (401) 274-8278.

Best desserts at a Chinese restaurant

That's the trouble with most Chinese restaurants -- not being able to end a meal with more than a fortune cookie. Something to do with a diabetic Han dynasty emperor? A beloved anorexic princess of legend? Think of the possibilities we've been missing. Fried rice pudding. General Tsao's Profiterole. A nice, cold bird's nest soup with an à la mode "egg"? Yeah -- the ice cream flavors could be intriguing. Litchi Nut Crunch. Hoisin Sauce Swirl. Actually, at the multi-ethnic Lemongrass restaurant, which has Thai, Cambodian, and Vietnamese dishes as well as Chinese, you can choose from among a half-dozen ice cream flavors. The less usual ones offered are ginger, green tea, and coconut. But you might want to stay away from the MSG ripple. (Just kidding.) 915 Atwood Ave, Johnston, (401) 942-2658.

Best excuse to leave the table

No, it's not the powder room. Or the cigar lounge. Or even fetching a sweater for your sweetheart from the car. The reason to leave is actually the surprise upon your return. Each time you come back to your designated place at Chez Pascal, you're apt to find that carelessly flung napkin folded into a fleur-de-lis, a bishop's hat, a bird of paradise or even, seasonally, a poinsettia blossom. Long-time waiter Evan Saia has turned a job-related hobby into a delightful source of amusement for guests at Chez Pascal. Not that diners would need more stimulation than the delectable dishes prepared by Pascal Leffray and the desserts designed by wife and co-owner Lynn Leffray. Tarts are her specialty; patés are his. And napkin-folding, well, Evan's the expert. Ask him for the Eiffel Tower and see what happens! 960 Hope Street, Providence, (401) 421-4422.

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Issue Date: November 16 - 22, 2001