Word sure got around fast when Trieste opened a couple of years ago. It wasn't in the big city, but a South County backwater, where the ebb and flow of Providence foodie testimonials might not circulate. But within a few months, it was being reviewed everywhere and touted as the greatest thing since sliced focaccia. Well, the restaurant moved this past summer, to a better-traveled location in nearby Narragansett, so we paid a visit to see if they'd fixed what wasn't broken.

There seems to be a bit more room, but not much, in the space that was occupied by Chez Pascal before it graduated in a similar progression to Providence. Grape bunches are still the main decorative motif, from the sign outside and the menu to plaster clusters on the walls along with the occasional colorful ceramics. Crab-apple green, in two shades, and black trim surround paper-topped tables. Trieste remains BYOB, but they're working on that.

The owners are still Anna and Gene Allsworthy, the latter in the kitchen. He started the place with superb credentials, having worked at both Raphael Bar-Risto and the White Horse Tavern. His idea in opening Trieste was to use that namesake city on the northern Adriatic, and the surrounding Friuli countryside, as culinary inspiration. Borrowings from Jewish to Hungarian have influenced the region's mealtimes; Trieste's original menu included broiled striped bass with a sweet and sour cabbage slaw. These days -- on the fall menu, at least -- a more generic northern Italian selection is offered, from baked eggplant Milanese to grilled Tuscan strip steak.

Looking over the choices, you won't want to neglect the chewy, crisp-crusted Italian bread, served with a bowl of olive oil that can be spooned out, so as to avoid a dripping cruet. Our tasty olive oil, containing sautéed garlic and herbs, was still warm.

There are only a half-dozen appetizers, including the night's special, but everything is tempting. A favorite of regulars is the shrimp bruschetta ($8.95), which we loved before. Never mind your smear of sauce and sprinkling of cheese, this one is heaped with tomatoes, calamatas, and three fat shrimp in a wine and garlic-butter sauce. Even more generous, for more ample appetites or more than one couple, is the crostini pomodoro ($6.95), a whole loaf of sliced Italian bread stuffed with goodies.

Johnnie had the soup of the day ($4.95), lentil with a vegetable broth, which was chock full of tomatoes. Quite good. I had to reprise Trieste's grilled calamari ($6.95), which Gene brought along from Raphael's. There's still the hearty smokiness that goes so well with the earthy spinach, which is singed on the grill before the caramelized onions and balsamic reduction wilt it further. Nowadays the squid bodies, still sans tentacles, are already sliced up for you, although I'd be willing to wrestle one live for this taste experience.

Another survivor on the menu, among the five pastas, is pumpkin tortelloni ($16.95), which Johnnie decided to have. The light Marsala cream sauce, which included spinach, pieces of artichoke hearts, asparagus and flavor-intensified oven-dried tomatoes, didn't overpower the delicious pasta, a larger form of tortellini. I had the lamb saltimbocca ($21.95), a Roman specialty: two thick chops (substituted for a loin cut, but so announced by our waiter) with prosciutto and fresh mozzarella melted on top. The meat was barely pink, rather than the medium-rare I ordered, but still enjoyable with its Barolo wine reduction. Again spinach, sautéed, and the saltimbocca's requisite sage sprouted in fresh sprigs from the lamb, as well as in the herb-speckled gorgonzola polenta.

There is one more dessert than there are appetizers, which indicates the kitchen's faith that your enthusiasm can only increase. A favorite from the beginning has been the chocolate fondant ($7.95), a warm cake with a still molten center, served with vanilla gelato. It's another Raphael's inspiration and hard to resist. I did my best, though, and succeeded in choosing the pear tart ($6.95). A dollop of almond mascarpone tops the fruit and a layer of caramel in a crumbly almost biscotti crust, all in a pool of fruity Chianti syrup, accented with a few fresh blueberries and strawberries. Johnnie wanted simply the biscotti & gelato ($5.95). The "assorted biscotti cookies" were only two, but the folds of vanilla gelato were abundant, if too sweet for me to steal much.

Well worth the visit, all in all. If Trieste continues moving north in two-year hops, maybe it'll reach Providence in a decade or so.

Bill Rodriguez can be reached at billrod@reporters.net.

Issue Date: November 30 - December 6, 2001