Lucy's

Old World charm and
New World neighborliness

by Johnette Rodriguez

441 Atwells Ave., Providence
273-1189.
Open for lunch Tues.-Fri., 11 a.m.-2 p.m.
Dinner, Tues.-Thurs., 5-10 p.m.
Fri. and Sat. till 11 p.m.
Sunday brunch, 10 a.m.-3 p.m.
Major credit cards

Strolling into Lucy's at the end of a week that just wouldn't quit, I was immediately captured by the classic hues of Fiestaware and the fringed cotton napkins in complementary muted colors rolled next to them. My eye then went to the fresh flowers on the tables and a large bouquet at the end of the bar. I knew this was a place that could renew me for my next deadlines.

The warm wood and burgundy naugahyde cushions of the booths were also inviting. So, with a cup of chamomile tea in hand, I began to relax and take in the rest of the restaurant.

Miniature Italian columns and a wall-sized mirror at the end of the dining space are reminders of Cafe Verdi's former residency here. Chic green-glass spotlights hang from the ceiling, giving a modern twist to the Old World elegance.

The eclectic menu does the same. Nouveau add-ons to classic burgers include sherried mushrooms and chipotle mayo. On the night I visited, the du jour topping for the crostini was fire-roasted, marinated yellow peppers.

Lucy's chefs sashay from Italian cuisine to Southwestern, gnocchi to quesadillas, and they nod to Asian specialities along the way. But they don't make the mistake of trying too much in one dish -- they keep the integrity of each culinary style.

The chefs also stick to a limited menu of salads, burgers, sandwiches, pasta with "gravy" in the $6-$10 range, and a half-dozen daily dinner specials.

"Small plates" include the requisite Rhode Islandisms (calamari and crostini), plus "Lucy's Famous Crab cakes" and Beijing dumplings.

We wanted to try a bit of everything but settled on steamed Beijing dumplings (filled with chicken and vegetables) to begin with ($3.95) and a cup of Mediterranean lentil and vegetable soup ($2.95).

The five dumplings were beautifully set out in a daisy pattern with crunchy clover sprouts in the middle. Coral chopsticks crisscrossed over the top, and the dumplings tasted as good as they looked, with a soy/peanut dipping sauce that was fiery hot.

My companion chose the braised chicken ($14.95) cooked in a rich sauce of plum tomatoes, grilled onions, mushrooms, and red wine. The half-chicken and vegetables were served over a soft and creamy polenta.

The pan-roasted tilapia, an aquacultured fish with a chartreuse Hollandaise ($16.95), lured me in. The two sweet-fleshed, finely textured fillets were lightly sauteed and resting on three leaves of wilted red Swiss chard. Rice pilaf accompanied the fish, and it was all quite delicious.

Desserts at Lucy's are made by Wildflower and by Ursula's European Pastries in Cranston. My partner ordered a cappuccino and a hazelnut biscotti dipped in chocolate ($1 for an oversized version). I caved in to a lemon mousse torte ($4.25) made by Ursula. It was as sumptuously satisfying as its presentation -- chocolate spirals on a large orange plate, with the yellow and white of the torte to one side.

The waitresses at Lucy's are friendly, helpful, and efficient. Dressed in crisp white Oxford shirts and ties, they add to the welcoming tone here.

On that Friday evening, owner/chefs Diane Slater and Wendy Davis took turns coming out of the kitchen and talking to customers, many of them families with young children. Again, that mixture of Old World charm and New World neighborliness.