The following listings have been distilled from recent full-length reviews; the date appearing at the end of each entry indicates the month and year of review. Hours, credit-card and liquor information are not included, so be sure to call ahead. And bear in mind that some menus change seasonally.

CHEEKY MONKEY, 14 Perry Mill Wharf, Newport, 845-9494. What's in a name? For Cheeky Monkey, it's a concept and a whimsical moniker that lends shape to this restaurant from the folks who brought us the Gatehouse in Providence. With a British Colonial spin, and monkeys on the chandeliers, this restaurant stakes its claim to "fun-loving." Two secondary themes emerge in chef Holly Dion's eclectic menu: her interests in Creole and Cajun tastes, as well as Asian dishes. There are nods to the British inspiration, however, such as the beer-battered fish and chips ($12.95). After dinner, guests are invited to move to the plush sitting room upstairs for brandy and cigars. (12/96)

MEDITERRANEO, 134 Atwells Avenue, Providence (331-7760). Mediterraneo seems to have reinvented the sidewalk cafe. The front and side walls literally fold out onto the street. As an added bonus, tables are set up on the sidewalk. We loved the openness of Mediterraneo, which has a definite European feel, with lights glowing from behind the bottles of liquor at the bar. Even neater are the hanging sculptures that light up after dark. For a main course, the grigliata mista della terra Mediterrenea ($19.95) features a grilled pork chop, veal sausage, AND a chicken breast. To top it off, the strawberry shortcake ($4.95), with fresh whipped cream sandwiched between two layers of biscuit-like cake, is to die for. Or try the white chocolate mousse ($4.95). Lightly whipped with a delicate chocolate flavor, its sweetness is balanced by a tart strawberry sauce lightly drizzled across the plate. (8/97)

MONTEGO BAY, 442 Atwells Avenue, Providence (751-3040). What a welcome addition to Radicchio Row, up there along Atwells Avenue. Dining at Montego Bay is a little like doing the limbo while most folks are dancing the Tarantella, but I bet you won't be able to resist once the steel band starts playing. When you first walk into Montego Bay, lazily circling fans nudge the AC down, as the bar beckons the heat-stricken crawling in like in a mirage cartoon. Crayon colors surround you, and exotic drinks are featured on the menu. For an entrée, try the jerk chicken ($14). The chili-based rubbing is not very hot but certainly flavorful, while the chicken is baked to maximize moistness. Watercress, oiled and baked crisp, comes as a side. As for the steel band, it had us dancing on the sidewalk. Fine food and exercise too? What more can we ask for? (8/97)

NIPPON RESTAURANT, 231 Wickenden St., Providence (331-6861). Stepping into the tiny front room of Nippon, we were surprised to see only two booths and a small table. But then we were led into the Tatami Room, where eating takes place with flat pillows to sit on. Workday stress, along with shoes, is left at the door of this two-story room. On the lower level, the waiters slip out of their sandals before sliding along on their knees to serve you. Nippon has an impressive list of sashimi appetizers (raw fish or seafood that becomes sushi with the addition of layered fish or wrap-around rice) and larger or innovative makis like the "Philadelphia maki" filled with cream cheese, smoked salmon, and scallions. For dinner, my partner speared the "tuna teriyaki" ($11.95), a generous portion of fresh tuna that had been marinated, grilled, and topped with sesame seeds. A Japanese jambalaya of a plate! (5/97)

OLGA'S CUP & SAUCER, 103 Point Street, Providence (831-6666). Olga's Cup & Saucer is the quintessential oasis in an urban setting. Near the busy Davol Square intersection, its inviting herb garden and restful patio beckon those country folks at heart whose work lives confine them to coffee breaks on concrete. Olga Bravo and partner Becky Wagner first set up shop ten years ago under a spreading oak tree in Little Compton. They turned out such good bread and brownies that Bravo and Wagner eventually expanded into gourmet desserts -- and then northward to Providence. Try their sandwiches, creative inventions wrapped in flour tortillas, baked in phyllo dough, or tucked inside Olga's sesame-sprinkled sourdough torpedoes. Their black-bean burrito ($4.75) is laced with fresh ginger and cilantro and rolled tight inside a tortilla with a thin coating of sour cream. For dessert, the polenta cake, made from Gray's stone-ground cornmeal and finely ground almonds, is reminiscent of German Sandkuchen, like a poundcake with moxie. (8/97)