[Sidebar] January 28 - February 4, 1998
[Food Reviews]
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The following listings have been distilled from recent full-length reviews; the date appearing at the end of each entry indicates the month and year of review. Hours, credit-card and liquor information are not included, so be sure to call ahead. And bear in mind that some menus change seasonally.

CANFIELD HOUSE, 5 Memorial Blvd., Newport (847-0416). A casino-turned-restaurant, the Canfield House is filled with the trappings of those bygone millions. The walls, with their mahogany wainscotting, reach at least 10 feet up before the rounded mahogany ceiling carries that height even higher. And the luxury continues with the menu, with its escargot among the appetizers and its antelope steak as an occasional special ($41.95!). We began with a baked portobello and a sundried tomato polenta ($8.50). The mushroom had been marinated in a 50-year-old balsamic vinegar and topped with a thin spread of goat cheese. Wonderfully appetizing! As were our entrées, penne rigate with lobster, shrimp and other friends ($21.95) and veal paillard with fresh sage and thinly sliced proscuitto. ($16.95). The next time you're at the Canfield House, you also might want to ask your waiter for a copy of the Canfield history -- it makes for great reading material as you soak up the atmosphere. (1/99)

CHOPMIST CHARLIE'S, 6900 Post Rd., North Kingstown (885-0575). You're traveling along the upper reaches of North Kingstown, hunting for cheap eats. Maybe you're up for seafood. If it's Wednesday or Thursday, you can pull into Chopmist Charlie's and take advantage of their $19.95 two-fer specials, complete with a half-carafe of the house red or white. The regular prices are as low as you'd expect, ranging from $6.50 sandwich plates to $16 filet mignon dinners. But the $19.95 specials are the best bargain. Indeed, if you both happen to order the 10-ounce prime rib, normally $10.95, the freebies would amount to 15 bucks. We tried the three other $19.95 specials that evening -- the scrod with lobster sauce, the linguini with clam sauce, and the chicken with Swiss cheese -- and only the latter disappointed, leaving us wanting more than the single stuffed breast. The desserts, pecan pie ($3.50) and bread pudding ($3), were a bit small, but, hey, with what you'd save on the prime rib, you could order two desserts. (1/99)

INDIAN CLUB, 455 Main St., East Greenwich (884-7100). Finding the Indian Club on this very American Main Street is like coming across a pearl in a quahog. Set between small retail stores and donut shops, the restaurant really stands out! And its uniqueness continues on the inside with dishes from both North and South India. We started with an onion and a chicken pakora, both deep-fried in chickpea batter and, unfortunately, both too greasy for our taste. The paneer pankora, on the other hand, had only the thinnest of batters, with a sliver of mint chutney tucked into it. Excellent. For a main course, we tried the tandori mixed grill ($13.95), with succulent pieces of orange-colored chicken, tender slices of lamb kabob, a tandori shrimp, and ground lamb all baked on a skewer. And then came the final course -- mango and saffron-pistachio ice cream ($2.25). There are so many sauces and dishes to try at the Indian Club, we only sampled the menu on this last visit. The next time, we'll be even more adventurous. (1/99)

OLERIO'S, 1099 Park Ave., Cranston (943-1980). Our dinner guests, David and Ginny, are regulars at Olerio's, so it's usually hugs all around when they arrive. It's a snug, narrow restaurant, with attention paid to food rather than velour on the walls. We began our night with fried mozzarella sticks and the Italian version of wings ($5.25), alla Taranto, with lemon butter and fresh rosemary. Every main dish we tried was quite good as well, including the scampi basilico ($14.95), served over basil fettucine, and the chicken and the sole Franchese. The latter two were sautéed not a moment past their prime, so both were moist and delicate, the egg batter appropriately minimal. For dessert, we ordered the grapenut custard ($2.25), which was as flavorful as at a good New England chophouse, while two items billed as "pie" were crustless varieties: chocolate cream and cappuccino (both $2.95). Olerio's is an unassuming place that's careful in the kitchen and rewarding on the plate. (1/99)

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