What is it about the West Deck that makes you instantly feel at home? The camaraderie of a waterfront bar? A premonition of special treatment because white linens are not only on tables but also at place settings on the wooden crescent bar that looks into the open kitchen? Or is it simply that the staff, to a person, is so warm and welcoming?

Though the last is the most significant, the simpatico ambiance at the West Deck is probably a combination of all of these factors. A number of other details work together to imbue the Newport restaurant with a comfortable elegance: vases of red roses on each table; the décor of plain brick walls with paintings of sailboats; the brocade valences at the top of the windows; and the built-on porch with French doors that stand open in summer and fall.

A similar mood pervades the menu, from chowders to cheesecakes. Several of the appetizers have a familiar base ingredient that is dressed up with something unusual, such as the fish chowder with Gosling’s rum, the crab cake with Korean kim chee, or, our choice, the calamari with black currants, almonds, and hummus ($9). The calamari is sautéed in a brown butter, not the customary deep-fry method, and the earthy tastes of the hummus, nuts, and currants make a magical combination with the squid rings. As a waterside restaurant, the West Deck also has oysters on the half shell, and baked oysters au gratin with leeks and a fennel sauce. Salads include roasted beets, goat cheese, Maytag blue cheese, and Cajun pecans among their greens and vinaigrettes.

Turning our attention to the entrées, we contemplated a cioppino with clams, mussels, shrimp, scallops, and fish in a saffron broth; poached lobster with potato gnocchi and ham; rack of lamb with pomegranate sauce; and sesame-crusted mahi-mahi with coconut curry sauce and banana chutney. Decisions, decisions.

We settled on the pork tenderloin ($24) for Bill and truffle-crusted halibut ($25) for me. The pork was grilled to a perfect doneness for my mate, who can be quite crotchety about such things. He was also seduced by two of his favorite things in the sauce atop the pork: fresh apricots and chipotle peppers. We were both charmed by all of the other accompaniments on his plate: mashed potatoes, green beans, asparagus, carrot purée, an onion/pepper salsa, and a watercress garnish. Could my dish possibly compete? It certainly did. The halibut steak was expertly roasted, its crust crispy, the lobster jus surrounding it lending a hefty, almost meaty flavor to the fish. The saffron risotto was deliciously creamy, and I had the same array of veggies: green beans, asparagus, and carrot purée with a sprig of dill in it.

It’s quite unusual to have two entrées that we’ve eaten in many other incarnations and to be so knocked out by them, not only in the way their sauces and sides enhanced their original flavors, but in the way that those flavors were preserved by the cooking. That makes me trust anything else the West Deck would serve, even as they adjust their menu to seasonal vegetables, fruits, and other ingredients.

Speaking of trust, they offer close to two-dozen white and red wines by the glass, and it’s safe to say you’re in good hands in finding the right wine to pair with your food.

And you can choose any of their house-made desserts and come up a winner: Key lime pie; apple tarte tatin; fondant au chocolat; Grand Marnier crème brûlée; and a chef’s choice cheesecake, with such flavors as strawberry, espresso, and peanut butter. The cheesecakes are individual portions, one little round cheesecake. Sometimes the chefs (James Mitchell, Robert Biela, and Rolando Catalan) will run a special; a recent banana-walnut bread pudding with caramel sauce sounds dreamy. We came around to the apple tarte tatin. It was wonderful, with the apple slices not overcooked, the spices not overbearing, and the crust a nice contrast in texture to its filling. The vanilla ice cream melting over this confection was terrific.

The West Deck has a hopping bar scene on its outside deck in the warmer months, with specialty drinks, including their signature margarita, with Grand Marnier, Cointreau, and orange juice. The menu outside relies on pub food faves, plus pizzas, pastas, and a grilled fish dish du jour. You can also order the "world famous West Deck lobster roll," or twin boiled lobsters with corn on the cob. It’s a different scene from the inside restaurant, but just as popular a hangout for locals and those non-locals in the know. You can now consider yourself one of them.